Do you have concerns about termite damage? If this is the case, you are not alone. Termites cause billions of dollars in structural damage each year, and property owners spend more than two billion dollars treating them. There are many ways to deal with such damage, from pest control services to more advanced methods such as a liquid termite barrier treatment and more.
What is the effectiveness of a liquid termite barrier treatment?
Subterranean termite liquid chemical barriers work by killing or repelling termites before they enter the structure and when they leave the place to return to their colony. In some cases, when using a repellent chemical such as Talstar Professional, termites will avoid it. If termites are present inside the structure and a repellent chemical is used to repel them, the termites will “back up” inside the walls to avoid it. In some cases, they will try to form a secondary colony to continue living inside the structure, or they will try to find a new way out. It rarely works for the “blind” subterranean termite workers. In the absence of moisture, termites are typically trapped inside the wall, unable to form a new colony, and eventually dehydrate and die. It is common in homes that use chemical treatments to find thousands of dead termites in walls, unable to escape and perished due to a lack of moisture.
Termiticides that repel termites
Termite repellent insecticides tend to keep termites away from structures. Repellent chemicals include Talstar Professional, Prelude Termiticide / Insecticide, and Bifen. These liquid termite chemicals’ repellency factor has specific applications. It primarily pre-constructs treatments and in areas where there is rapid control of subterranean termites.
- Prelude – is a low-odour variant of Dragnet Ft. Many experts consider Prelude to be a short-term termite control product used in areas where contamination from a long-term termiticide is not desirable.
- Talstar Professional – has been a pest control industry standard for many years. It is both inexpensive and effective at killing subterranean termites. It is termite repellent, long-lasting in most soils, and safe when used correctly.
- Bifen Insecticide / Termiticide – works similarly to Talstar Professional but is significantly less expensive. Control Solutions manufactures it, and it is generally regarded as safe when used correctly.
Non-repellent termite insecticides are chemicals that are invisible to subterranean termites. This non-repellency factor is very beneficial in the control of subterranean termites. Non-repellent chemicals include “Chlorfenapyr (Phantom),” “Fipronil (Termidor),” and “imidacloprid (Premise).” Termites do not reject these chemicals and, in most cases, are unaware of their presence. Non-repellent chemicals are best used in spot treatment applications because termites are killed rather than repelled to other untreated areas of the structure. “Altriset” is a newer non-repellent and “GREEN” termiticide. Altriset is not repellent to termites and is also very safe for the environment, making it one of the safest termiticides on the market today. It works by paralysing the termites’ muscles. The termites die as a result of their inactivity and inability to eat.
- Premise 2 / Premise 75 – is the most widely used termiticide in the world. It is a chemical known as a “neonic” or neonicotinoid derived from tobacco plants and nicotine. It is a liquid concentrate that foams quickly and is simple to mix in small quantities and is very effective. The Premise has the unusual property of causing termites to stop feeding and socialising with other termites. By exposing termites to even small amounts of Premise, makes them confused and eventually die. When many termites die in the same area, it creates a natural repellent for other termites to leave. When used correctly, it is generally safe.
- Termidor – widely used for termite control and the most popular termiticide in the United States. Termidor is the only termiticide that is 100 percent effective against termites and also eliminates termite colonies. It was first made available in the United States in 2000. Since then, it has demonstrated complete control in over 90% of the test sites and provides excellent control. The active ingredient, Fipronil, kills termites and has a transfer effect. The effect carries from worker termites to the colony. It is widely regarded as the most effective termiticide available and used by nearly all pest control companies. It is one of the most toxic. There is a ban on Thermidor in the European Union, France, Japan, and other countries due to concerns about toxicity. When used correctly, it is generally safe.
- Bora-Care – is a wood treatment, not a soil treatment. When applied, it is a type of boric acid that will last the life of the wood. When used correctly, it is very safe.
- Taurus – Termidor generic or “post-patent” version. Control Solutions in Pasadena, Texas, manufactures the Taurus. Taurus is a viable low-cost alternative to Termidor due to its lower cost. However, the active ingredient “Fipronil” is made in Israel and is not the same in Termidor made in the United States. Taurus appears to be as effective as Termidor in overall effectiveness; however, it has a slightly different colour and odour. Another critical factor is that no viable University tests are available to demonstrate how effective it is.
- Altriset – termiticide that was recently introduced and is considered “Green” and low in toxicity by the EPA. It works by paralysing the termites’ muscles. This one-of-a-kind function kicks in almost immediately upon contact by the worker termites, causing them to stop feeding on the wood. The results of university testing and USDA testing are very encouraging. While Altriset does not have the same transfer effect as Fipronil, it does have enough transfer between affected termites to eliminate colonies near structures. Because of its “Green” nature, this product is ideal for use in environmentally sensitive homes, as well as in areas where it is not allowed to use more toxic goods.
- Phantom – A well-known non-repellent termiticide. When used correctly, it is generally safe.
The steps involved in putting a liquid chemical barrier in place
High-pressure sprayers with a whopping “150 PSI” output were popular in the pest control industry in the 1970s. It was assumed that the higher the pressure, the better the spray coverage.
Everything changed in the early 1990s when lower PSI did a better job dispersing chemicals with less “drift” and mess. Chemical manufacturers changed their labels to specify that the performance of liquid termiticide applications should be at a low pressure of around 25 PSI. Today, all pest control companies that use liquid termite chemicals use weaker gas or electric-powered sprayers. The majority of these sprayers produce less pressure than a standard water hose!
For people who like to get rid of termites themselves – Spot treating with termite insecticides does not require expensive equipment as you can apply most liquid termiticides with a few simple tools from your local hardware store. Obviously, in more complex termite infestations, you should seek the services of a professional. However, if you prefer to do it yourself, we’ve devised a simple strategy that makes the job simple.
How to use liquid termiticide insecticides
Patios, porches, floating slabs, and concrete additions:
Termiticide labels include detailed instructions for performing treatments beneath cement or slab foundations.
- A 2-gallon bucket. The termiticide is mixed in a 2-gallon bucket so that it is applied 1-2 gallons at a time into the drill holes. Many pest control companies use this technique during the winter when their spray rigs are frozen! It is helpful in a variety of situations and ideal for people who like to do Do-It-Yourself
- You require rubber gloves, goggles, and appropriate clothing for reasons of safety. The products sold are safe when used as directed, but please be cautious. You don’t want to end up in the same situation as your termites!
- Funnel made of long plastic. Long plastic funnels (1.5 – 2.0 feet) are ideal for inserting into drill holes (1/2 inch or larger) and dispersing the termiticide beneath porches, patios, garages, slab foundations, and other structures. The average rate in drilled holes is approximately 1 gallon of termiticide per hole ” (holes drilled every 12″). In a 2-5 gallon bucket, combine any termiticide and pour it through the funnel. This method helps treat concrete areas where the tightly compacted soil is against the slab’s bottom, and the termiticide must “drip” down inside.
- You can drill with a hammer and can rent hammer drills from any tool rental store. The standard drill bit is a carbide-coated tip drill with a 1/2″ wide by 18″ long standard size. You might also consider renting a ground fault interrupter (GFI). The GFI is a small box into which you can plug the drill. You then plug the GFI into any 110V wall outlet. When drilling inside slab foundations near plumbing lines, GFIs come in handy. If the drill bit comes into contact with any metal in the slab, the drill will turn off, and the drill bit will be saved, not to mention plumbing lines, post-tension cables, rebar, and so on. Before using the GFI, make sure to test it by touching the tip of the drill to any grounded metal object, such as water lines under a sink, etc.
- Cement. A small amount of concrete or sand mix mixed with water in a small bowl works great for patching holes drilled in cement, etc. Make sure to plug the hole first with the Trebor plug.
- Trebor Triple Seal plugs for filling holes drilled into the cement foundation. Using paper towels is not recommended because it is against most pesticide labels.
All pier and beam structures, as well as the outside foundations:
Most termiticide labels include detailed instructions on how to treat foundation areas.
- A 5-gallon bucket. The termiticide is mixed in a 5-gallon bucket and can be applied 4-5 gallons into the trench and drill holes. Many pest control companies use this technique during the winter when their spray rigs are frozen! It is helpful in a variety of situations and ideal for people who like to do Do-It-Yourself
- You can use a pic or a small shovel. Dig trenches around your property’s perimeter with a pic or small shovels. It is required to trench around the exterior and interior foundation walls of pier and beam structures. You also need to trench for piers and plumbing lines. A pic has a sharp point on one end and a flat spade on the other. You can use the spade with the flat side to dig a trench by dragging it along your foundation wall to create a shallow 3-6 inch deep trench. The trench dirt is laid back for later replacement after chemical treatment. The rate in a trench is 4 gallons of termiticide per 10 linear feet or about 1/2 gallon per foot.
Foaming plumbing penetrations and voids inside walls
Most termiticide labels include specific instructions for performing wall foaming. To foam a wall with liquid termiticide, you should mix the termiticide with a foaming agent. It will usually not foam on its own. Add 2-4 oz of foaming agents, such as ProFoam Platinum Concentrate, to the average amount of termiticide. The amount of foaming agent required depends on the hardness of the water, so experiment to find the ideal ratio for a shaving cream-like foam. You should apply all the foam using a specialised foam applicator, such as the Solo Wall Foamer.
- You should use an AirMate Air Grill to cover access holes made through sheetrock for plumbing or bath traps with an AirMate Air Grill. In some cases, such as getting access under a bathtub, a small 6″ x 6″ hole where you can see under the bathtub is preferable. Cut the sheetrock out with a small sheetrock saw, then inspect and treat it. Replace the sheetrock and wrap the duct tube around the entire hole. Install an Air Mate Grill Cover to disguise the hole as an air conditioning return. This way, the next time you need to access the plumbing, you remove the cover and peel off the tape.
- Solo Wall Foamer – The Solo Foamer is an excellent tool for foaming into wall voids, and other areas where drilling through the cement patio or foundation would be too difficult or inconvenient. Use a 3/8 inch drill between wall studs about 4-6 inches from the floor with a drill bit. You should use a 6-inch layer of foam to fill the void in the wall to penetrate studs, woodwork, and other surfaces and kill termites on contact. Do this along the entire length of the wall where there are termites. When treating Drywood Termites, the foaming process becomes more complicated. You need to foam the whole wall by drilling along the entire wall in a “checkerboard” pattern and into the infested wood where termites are present.
After you’ve killed the termites with a termiticide, it’s time to use a bait system to attack the colony. The Hex Pro Termite Baiting System makes termite colony baiting simple. Using a termite baiting system without first eliminating the localised termite infestation with a termite insecticide may allow the termites to continue feeding until the baits are effective. Although some pest control companies adhere to this philosophy, and others use liquid termiticides instead of a termite bait system, the combination of the two is the best approach. It is the method used by the majority of reputable pest control companies today.
The two-step professional approach to termite control:
- Using a termite baiting system, bait the termite colony.
- Treat termite activity on the spot with a liquid termiticide.
We all know how dangerous and annoying termites can get. Let’s participate in Singapore termites control and remove termites permanently today.